Modern Nostalgia:
A Recap of NYFW SS27

A look back on fashion's largest week ahead of SS27.

“New York Fashion Week… get better, do better,” renowned model and self proclaimed “disruptor” Shaun Ross took to Instagram this week to candidly discuss the nature of the changing New York Fashion Week. Ross, with fashion industry experience dating back to his career beginnings in 2008, explained his concern with New York-based designers and brands not doing themselves justice with the invitees surrounding their events– a rise in presence of the social media influencer with little ties to the fashion industry work itself. A nostalgia permeated the video and comments, citing “2012-2016” as the golden age of fashion week.

Despite its growing competition with Coachella to hold the title “Influencer Olympics” colloquially across social media, New York’s designers brought fresh ideas rooted in opulence, cool, and odes to Americana ranging from the 1920s-2000s to the table this season. Sheer fabrics, drop waists, color, beading, embroidery, fur, and overall fun permeated the collection presentations that took place from Thursday, September 10th through Tuesday the 15th. While the runway presentations, brand pop-ups, by-appointment showings, and who’s-who industry parties may be filled with influencers and industry insiders alike, there is a clear sense of cultural longing for the past as New York navigates what is next for the fashion industry.

Here’s what went down this past week:

“King of Color,” Henry Zankov's debut at Diane von Furstenberg formally kicked off the CFDA-endorsed week, displaying new prints and iterations of iconic wrapped silhouettes (duh!) for the house.

However, Ralph Lauren may have stolen a bit of the DVF thunder the evening prior. RL SS27 was a reimagined reference to early 19th century Americana– high neck band collars, floral tapestry-like fabrics, puffed dressshirt sleeves, pocketwatches, and drop waists combined with modern stylings to characterize the collection.

Ralph Lauren, SS27 Look 45

Standouts of the week included Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler, and Khaite.

Joseph Altuzarra’s collection proved to be a bold ease of pattern styled out with solids and sheers, be they for day or night or somewhere between. He has crafted for the woman unafraid of moving across classic silhouettes, be they in homage to full skirts of the 1950s or sheer dropwaists reminiscent of the 1920s. The show spoke to a move towards color and expression, a louder moment for the house than collections past.

Rachel Scott’s second collection at Proenza Schouler took the brand into a more confident direction. Color blocking, smart use of pattern, sophistication without compromising fun, freely-draped dresses, and the knits Scott has become known for all allowed the show to solidify Proenza as defining for the New York client.

Proenza Schouler, SS27 Look 37

Vogue’s September cover star, Kaia Gerber, opened the Khaite show in a rib-high waisted leather skirt and structured bra, hinting at what was to follow: a collection for the phenotype of New York City’s “it” girl of today. She has a grit that keeps a leather jacket central to her wardrobe, while flawlessly integrating romanticism through sheer chiffons and near-neutral florals. I’d be shocked if we don’t see the further mainstreaming of Khaite to come– or at least those attempting to mimic the aesthetics of Catherine Holstein.

As many predicted, maximalism is back and continues to push ahead as the economy itself recesses.

Connor Ives knows how to have fun and looks incredibly cool while doing it. Every look provided a feast for the beauty-seeking eyes, painting a picture of what I could only dream of the crowd at a downtown club door looking like before entering. Thank you for coming back to NYC, Mr. Ives!

Naturally, animal print made another run this season with deer, tiger, zebra, and leopard patterns abounding; however, the wildest event of the week was perhaps the assault of PETA protesters by CFDA president Steven Kolb at the COS presentation on Saturday. The disturbing videos from the pre-show moments display the protestors taking to the runway (seemingly after crashing the event), followed by two of these individuals being constrained by Kolb. The CFDA has since placed Kolb “on leave” following the altercation, but a resignation feels imminent.

Area’s presentation by Nicholas Aburn was a party on the runway, dripping in metallics, unique silhouettes, and well-tailored glamour.

Similarly, Coach quite literally presented a party on its runway to celebrate the house’s 85th anniversary, sending models down the catwalk in party hats to compliment their celebration-appropriate attire.

Bad Bench TongTong’s Tereence Zhou returned to New York’s schedule with fantastical pieces resembling surrealist sculptures. Clips of the show proliferated across socials, as beloved southern rapper Saweetie closed the presentation wearing a halterneck, hoop skirt gown covered in neon green and white feathers.

Indie brand threeASFOUR returned to the runway after a five year hiatus, showing experimental denim pieces entrenched in geometric sculptural elements.

I desperately need to see more red carpets graced by Jackson Wiederhoeft gowns. No one is doing embellishments like this designer, and this season’s collection glittered with house-signature florals and corset boning to reiterate the brand’s hold on their market corner.

Wiederheoft, SS27 Look 03

But not to worry if pushing the maximalism envelope is not for you, Public School’s Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, in addition to Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein, are holding down the fort for minimalism– embedding luxury in materials and/or the intricacy of construction.

The women at the helms of their houses did not come to play, but heavy leans into romantic femininity certainly carried as a theme through collections by Anna Sui, Sandy Liang, Hillary Taymour for Collina Strada, Khaite, Dauphinette, Selkie, and Kim Shui.

Dauphinette, SS27 Look 2

Collina Strada, SS27 Look 33

Where her pocket-forward designs followed into this season, Sandy Liang presented a more utilitarian collection characterized by belt bags and windbreakers. However, this sporty influence left the brand’s hyperfeminine codes uncompromised, constructing a smart balance when designing for the active woman of New York.

Rich, jewel color statements found themselves rooting a plethora of collections across Diane Von Furstenburg, Coach, Kim Shui, and Tory Burch.

Tory Burch, SS27

Perhaps in the clearest modern nostalgic presentation, Nichola Brognano brought Jenny Humphry-chic to the 7 For All Mankind runway. Brognano’s take on skinny jeans, tiny neckscarves, platform pumps, large slouchy bags, slinking silhouettes, and exposed bras will surely soon find their way to Pinterest boards far and wide, if they haven’t already.

7 For All Mankind, SS27 Look 7

The duo behind Eckhaus Latta stayed true to their coolest-kids-in-school profile, bringing pieces such as layered neon sheer tops and a warm-toned, faded blue jean I’ll be longingly dreaming of until I can get myself in that perfectly slouchy style. The brand also debuted a collaboration with J.Crew, now live for purchase, featuring classic knits and other reimagined J.Crew pieces as seen on the Eckhaus Latta runway.

Longtime favorite of the runway, Thom Browne concluded the week in the Big Apple with a bug-induced runway dream. The CFDA chairman took a page out of the Dauphinette playbook by including bug embellishments, swapping beetles for bees, butterflies, and dragonflies.

Thom Browne, SS27 Look 20

While the crowd and fanfare may not be up to par for many respected professionals in the industry, the designers of New York are producing work that continues to carve out the city’s identity in the global space. Spring/Summer 2027 brought a fresh sense of joy, boldness, and play anchored by sophistication.

A modern take on nostalgia that somehow feels brand new.